Easily one of my favorite countries, Georgia surprises and delights around every corner. First and foremost, the people are second to none. They are so hospitable and fun-loving. They love making friends and sharing a coffee, or a glass of wine, with you. They are also destined to be outdoors and feel a calling for the mountains when they have been stuck in the city for too long. Something that is easy to understand once you journey up into their Northern Caucuses. This trip saw my mother and me travel first to the capital, Tiblisi, then up into the mountains to Kazbegi, and down into the Kakheti wine region over five days.
People
Georgia is a beautiful and varied country with delicious food, but it is the people that always set a country apart. The Georgian people, like our driver pictured here, are so lovely. While exploring the Kakheti wine region, he swerved off the road to drive into a beautiful orchard.
“Do you like apple-pears?” he inquired as he beamed at us in the rearview mirror.
We soon discovered that apple-pears must be a direct translation for nectarines!
“This is my uncle’s orchard!” he said proudly, as he encouraged us to fill up bags of the sweet, juicy fruit.
Place
Tiblisi
Tiblisi is the coolest city. It is reminiscent of Havana or Palermo, but with that ex-Soviet edge. The historic Georgian houses sit proudly, albeit crumbling, on twisting streets. Exquisite restaurants and wine bars pepper the city. Take your time here and do not miss the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts or the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater.
Taste
Tiblisi
Don’t miss the wine tasting at Dadi Wine Bar in the center of town. It’s a female-run wine shop that knows their wines and puts in the effort to see what you like and serve you exactly that. The lovely owner read our palates perfectly and the pairings were spot on. Hands down the best wine bar that these traveling feet have stumbled into.
Move
Kazbegi
There is only one road up into the Northern Caucuses. It’s called the Old Military Road and every blog tells you not to drive it. We got a driver to get us up into the region and back out again but and we ended up making great friends with them. I wouldn’t be so afraid of the drive, though. There is an understanding of a third, central passing lane in Georgia that is used by cars going in either direction. If you can get your mind around that, then the drive is just fine. You may want to still hire a driver just so you don’t miss any of the positively jaw-dropping views, though.
Place
Gergeti Trinity Church
The Gergeti Church is a beautiful monastery perched up in the mountains. There is actually a huge peak right behind the church, but we could only glimpse it for about a half an hour when we happened to get up for an early morning hike. If it is cloudy during your visit, be sure to look out from your hotel window if you are up early enough to not miss the towering, snow-capped mountain.
Stay
Kakheti Wine Region
We stayed one night in Sighnaghi, the most picturesque town in the wine region, and one night in one of the historic vineyard villas in the region. The villa is called Vazisubani Estate and I would highly recommend that you opt for this splurge stay during your travels. The infinity pool and elegant choices make this a magical place. Visit Sighnaghi for a lunch at Pheasant’s Tears instead. More on that later…
Move
Kakheti Wine Region
While in Sighnagi, be sure to walk off your wine buzz by trekking along the old city walls. Awesome views and a perfect interlude to tastings.
Taste
Kakheti Wine Region
Georgia is home to one of the best meals of my life. The wine tasting at Pheasant’s Tears is fun, but the food is the real standout. Their Georgian, vegetarian dishes are locally grown and to die for. Don’t forget to have some chacha as a digestif!
The Wayfaring Wren 