Bursa

I’ve visited Bursa and the region around it a handful of times. It’s a day trip from Istanbul that is spent wandering the bazaar, padding around the grand mosque, and digging into a piping hot plate of Iskender. My favorite spot in the bazaar is Koza Han, an Ottoman center of silk production. But the city’s history goes back even further, through the Byzantine era to 522 B.C. when silkworm cocoons were smuggled from China. The shops sell beautiful silk scarves, which are a pleasure just to marvel at.

For lunch, it’s Iskender Kebab, such a comfort food to me. First, the dish is layered with pieces of pide (think unsalted focaccia), then slices of doner kebab are layered on and covered with tomato sauce. When they set this plate in front of you, don’t dig in just yet! A waiter with a sizzling saucepan of melted butter will come wheeling around some corner and slosh the butter over the dish. With a side of yogurt to add some cool freshness, it really hits the spot!

Bursa’s Grand Mosque was built by the Ottomans in 1399 and it feels like a labyrinth of huge, jaw-dropping calligraphy. The central fountain inside the mosque is very unusual and adds a lovely sound and design element to the space.